- Licorice, known as mulethi in Hindi, contains glabridin, an active compound with genuine clinical evidence for fading pigmentation.
- Glabridin works by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme that drives melanin production in skin.
- A clinical trial found licorice extract cream more effective than hydroquinone for melasma, with fewer side effects.
- It is considered gentle, with a lower irritation profile than many stronger lightening agents.
- It pairs well with vitamin C, niacinamide and kojic acid or alpha arbutin for a stronger combined effect.
- Results build gradually over 6 to 12 weeks, and daily sunscreen is essential alongside it.
- What Is Licorice (Mulethi)?
- How Licorice Works on Pigmentation
- Forms of Licorice in Skincare
- The Main Benefits of Licorice for Skin
- Licorice for Specific Pigmentation Concerns
- How to Use Licorice for Skin
- Licorice Alongside Other Brightening Actives
- How to Choose the Right Brightening Product
- Results, Timeline and Best Practices
- Who Should Use Licorice?
- Related Reading
- Frequently Asked Questions
Licorice root, known as mulethi in Hindi and used across Ayurvedic and Unani medicine for centuries, has quietly become one of the more clinically credible brighteners in modern dermatology. Unlike some traditional ingredients where the science is still thin, licorice's active compound, glabridin, has real clinical trial data behind it for pigmentation and melasma, in some comparisons outperforming a well known prescription lightening agent. This matters because melasma and stubborn dark spots are notoriously frustrating to treat, and many people cycle through products with little to show for it before finding something backed by real evidence. This guide explains what licorice actually does for dark spots and uneven tone, how to use it, and where it fits alongside other brightening ingredients.
You will find it mapped to real products along the way, from pigmentation-focused serums like the 2% Kojic Acid and 1% Alpha Arbutin serum to the wider pigmentation collection. As a herbal skincare brand rooted in traditional Indian botanicals, Oshea's approach is described on our About page.
1. What Is Licorice (Mulethi)?
Licorice, botanically Glycyrrhiza glabra, is a perennial herb whose root has been used in traditional medicine systems across Asia, the Middle East and Europe for thousands of years. In Ayurveda it is known as mulethi and has long been used both internally and topically, including in traditional skin-brightening pastes passed down through generations, much like turmeric and amla in the broader Ayurvedic beauty tradition.
The compound responsible for most of licorice's skin-brightening reputation is glabridin, a flavonoid extracted from the root. Glabridin has been shown to scavenge free radicals, inhibit UVB-induced pigmentation and inhibit tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanin production, all without affecting normal skin cell DNA synthesis, according to this clinical review of pigmentary treatments in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. In vitro work on a standardised, glabridin-enriched licorice extract has also demonstrated antioxidant activity, UV-B protection and measurable melanin reduction in laboratory melanoma cell models, as reported in this in vitro study of a glabridin-enriched licorice extract.
Licorice and mulethi are the same ingredient under two names. If a product lists Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, that is licorice, whether or not the word mulethi appears on the label.
2. How Licorice Works on Pigmentation
Dark spots and uneven tone form when melanocytes, the pigment-producing cells in skin, become overactive, often triggered by sun exposure, inflammation or hormonal changes. Licorice's glabridin interrupts this process at the source rather than simply exfoliating away existing pigment, which is part of why its effects, though gradual, tend to be more lasting than a quick surface treatment.
Tyrosinase inhibition
Glabridin blocks tyrosinase, the enzyme that converts tyrosine into melanin. Less active tyrosinase means less new pigment is produced, which is the core mechanism behind licorice's brightening effect, confirmed in laboratory studies measuring tyrosinase inhibition directly. This is the same broad mechanism that many prescription and cosmeceutical brighteners target, which is part of why glabridin has attracted so much comparative research against agents like hydroquinone rather than being studied in isolation.
Antioxidant and calming support
Glabridin also has antioxidant properties and can reduce UVB-induced inflammation in skin, which helps prevent some of the inflammatory pigmentation that follows sun damage or irritation. This dual action, calming plus brightening, is part of why licorice remains popular even as newer synthetic brighteners have entered the market; it addresses two contributing factors to uneven tone at once rather than just one. Explore the dark spots collection and the de-pigmentation collection for brightening options.
In a split-face clinical trial, 16 out of 20 patients with melasma had an excellent response to a 20 percent licorice liquiritin cream applied twice daily for four weeks, and glabridin was found more efficacious than hydroquinone in that comparison, as reported in this review table of pigmentary treatment evidence.
3. Forms of Licorice in Skincare
Licorice's active compounds appear in several formats, and formulated products offer a more reliable, standardised dose than a raw mulethi paste.
| Format | What it offers | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Serum | Concentrated, targeted brightening | Dark spots, melasma, uneven tone |
| Face wash or cleanser | Gentle daily exposure | General tone maintenance |
| Blended brightening formula | Licorice with other actives | Stronger, faster pigmentation control |
| Traditional mulethi paste | Homemade, inconsistent strength | Occasional traditional ritual use |
While Oshea does not sell a licorice product in isolation, the pigmentation-focused range works on the same target through complementary actives, including the Glopure lightening serum, the 2% Alpha Arbutin serum, the Glopure lightening face pack and the Kojic Acid face wash.
4. The Main Benefits of Licorice for Skin
Fades dark spots and pigmentation
This is licorice's headline benefit, backed by real clinical trial data, and it is why the ingredient continues to feature in dermatology reviews of natural pigmentation treatments. Unlike ingredients that rely mostly on tradition or anecdote, licorice's active compound has been directly compared against a prescription-strength lightening agent in controlled trials, which gives it unusually strong footing among natural brighteners.
Evens out melasma-prone skin
Melasma is notoriously difficult to treat and often needs a multi-ingredient approach. Licorice's tyrosinase-inhibiting action makes it a useful, gentler component of that approach, particularly for people who want to avoid harsher agents. See the Glopure 11-in-1 gel cream with SPF 25 for a combined brightening and protection option.
Calms UV-related redness
Its anti-inflammatory action can soften the look of redness that follows sun exposure, which indirectly supports a more even complexion over time. Explore the brightening collection for supporting products, including the Vitamin C brightening illuminating gel.
5. Licorice for Specific Pigmentation Concerns
Melasma
Licorice extract has specific clinical trial support for melasma, making it one of the better-studied natural options for this stubborn, often hormone-linked form of pigmentation. Melasma frequently resists treatment because its triggers, sun exposure, hormonal shifts and genetics, keep reactivating pigment production even after visible improvement, which is why a gentle, sustainable ingredient with real evidence behind it is particularly valuable for long-term management.
Sun-induced dark spots
For pigmentation caused by sun exposure, licorice's tyrosinase inhibition works alongside daily sunscreen use to gradually fade existing spots while preventing new ones. This is one of the most common pigmentation patterns in Indian skin, given year-round sun intensity, which is part of why brightening routines here so often pair a tyrosinase inhibitor with strict daily sun protection rather than relying on either alone. See the sunscreen range, including the Vitamin C Kakadu Plum invisible sunscreen SPF 50 PA.
Post-acne dark marks
The dark marks left behind after a breakout heals respond to the same pigment-slowing mechanism. Pair licorice-adjacent brighteners with an acne routine from the acne collection for a complete approach, and consider the Vitamin C brightening illuminating toner to support tone evenness alongside treatment.
General dullness alongside pigmentation
It is common for uneven tone and general dullness to show up together, since both often trace back to sun exposure and slow cell turnover. A combined approach, such as the Glopure lightening and brightening foaming cleanser alongside the Rice Water Brightening face serum, tackles both angles rather than treating them as separate problems.
Clinically backed brightening for stubborn dark spots
Discover a pigmentation routine built on real evidence, not just tradition.
Shop the Pigmentation Range6. How to Use Licorice for Skin
A simple brightening routine
- Cleanse. Start with a gentle face wash such as the Vitamin C face wash.
- Treat. Apply a brightening serum, layering the Kojic Acid and Alpha Arbutin serum at night.
- Moisturise. Follow with a light moisturiser to support comfort and barrier health.
- Protect (morning). Always finish with sunscreen, such as the Vitamin C SPF 50 PA sunscreen.
Pigmentation ingredients only work if paired with consistent sun protection. Skipping sunscreen undoes weeks of progress in a single unprotected afternoon.
7. Licorice Alongside Other Brightening Actives
Licorice fits naturally into a broader pigmentation routine, since different brighteners work through different mechanisms.
| Pair with | Why it works |
|---|---|
| Vitamin C | Antioxidant brightening through a different pathway |
| Niacinamide | Slows the transfer of pigment to surface cells |
| Kojic acid and alpha arbutin | Additional tyrosinase-inhibiting brighteners |
| Sunscreen | Essential, non-negotiable partner for any brightening routine |
Explore the Vitamin C serum and the 10% Vitamin C and 0.5% Ferulic Acid serum as strong pairing options. For a daily cleansing step that supports the same goal, try the Vitamin C brightening foaming face wash.
8. How to Choose the Right Brightening Product
- Look for proven actives. Kojic acid, alpha arbutin, vitamin C and niacinamide all have supporting evidence for pigmentation.
- Be patient with strength. Gentler formulas take longer but are easier to sustain daily.
- Prioritise sunscreen. No brightening product outperforms consistent SPF for protecting results.
- Consider a body option too. Uneven tone is not limited to the face; the Vitamin C skin-illuminating body lotion extends the same principles to the body.
- Check quality standards. See our awards and certifications page.
9. Results, Timeline and Best Practices
| What you are after | When to expect change |
|---|---|
| Calmer, less irritated skin | 2 to 4 weeks |
| Visible fading of dark spots | 6 to 8 weeks |
| Meaningful improvement in melasma | 8 to 12 weeks and beyond |
Best practices
- Patch test any new brightening product before full-face use.
- Wear sunscreen every single day, rain or shine, since even brief unprotected exposure can undo weeks of progress.
- Be consistent; pigmentation ingredients need sustained use to show results.
- See a dermatologist for stubborn melasma or pigmentation that does not respond over several months.
For further reading, this evidence summary on glabridin outlines the clinical strength of the ingredient, and this clinical and in vitro evaluation of a glabridin-containing brightening product details a more recent 56-day trial. Taken together, this body of research places licorice among the better-evidenced natural brightening ingredients, well ahead of many botanicals whose reputation rests mostly on tradition rather than controlled study.
10. Who Should Use Licorice?
- Melasma-prone skin: licorice has specific clinical support here.
- Sun-induced dark spots: pairs well with daily sunscreen for gradual fading.
- Post-acne marks: supports fading once active breakouts are under control.
- Sensitive skin wanting a gentler brightener: a lower-irritation option than some stronger agents.
- Anyone building a layered pigmentation routine: combines well with vitamin C, niacinamide and alpha arbutin.
11. Related Reading
Key Takeaways
- Licorice (mulethi) contains glabridin, a clinically studied tyrosinase inhibitor for pigmentation.
- A clinical trial found it more effective than hydroquinone for melasma, with fewer side effects.
- It works gently and gradually, and pairs well with vitamin C, niacinamide, kojic acid and alpha arbutin.
- Sunscreen is essential; brightening actives cannot outrun unprotected sun exposure.
- Give it 6 to 12 weeks of consistent use, and see a dermatologist for stubborn or long-standing melasma.
12. Frequently Asked Questions
Does licorice actually lighten dark spots?
Yes, licorice has genuine clinical support for this. Its main active, glabridin, inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase that drives melanin production. In a split-face clinical trial, a majority of participants with melasma had an excellent response to a licorice extract cream, and glabridin was found to be more effective than hydroquinone in that study. Results still take weeks and work best alongside daily sunscreen.
What is the difference between licorice and mulethi?
They are the same plant. Mulethi is the Hindi and Ayurvedic name for licorice root, botanically Glycyrrhiza glabra. In traditional Indian skincare it has long been used as a brightening and soothing ingredient, and modern dermatology now studies the same root under its active compound, glabridin.
How long does licorice take to fade dark spots?
Clinical studies on licorice extract for melasma generally measured results over four to eight weeks of consistent twice-daily use. Home use with a formulated product follows a similar timeline: expect gradual improvement over six to twelve weeks rather than a fast fix, and always pair it with daily sunscreen.
Can licorice be used with vitamin C or niacinamide?
Yes. Licorice's tyrosinase-inhibiting action pairs well with vitamin C's antioxidant brightening and niacinamide's effect on slowing pigment transfer. Combining brightening ingredients that work through different mechanisms is a common and effective strategy, though it is best to introduce one new active at a time.
Is licorice safe for sensitive skin?
Licorice extract is generally considered gentle and is often used in soothing, anti-inflammatory formulas alongside its brightening role. It has a low irritation profile compared to stronger lightening agents, which is part of why it has become a popular natural alternative. Still, patch test any new product first.
Is licorice safe during pregnancy?
Topical licorice extract in skincare is generally viewed with some caution during pregnancy, mainly because ingredient safety data for pregnancy is often limited rather than because of confirmed risk. As with any active ingredient during pregnancy, check with your doctor before adding a new licorice-based product to your routine.
Does mulethi help with acne scars too?
Licorice's action on melanin production can help fade the dark marks that are left behind after acne heals, sometimes called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It does not treat active acne itself, so it works best as part of a routine that also addresses the breakouts, with licorice supporting the fading of the marks afterward.
Does licorice help with under-eye dark circles?
Licorice's tyrosinase-inhibiting action is sometimes included in eye creams aimed at dark circles caused by pigmentation, though the delicate under-eye area can have multiple causes for darkness, including thin skin and visible blood vessels that licorice cannot address. It is more reliably effective on pigmentation-related dark circles than on those caused by structural or vascular factors.
